Edinburgh:  city of dramatic hills, grand gestures and vaulting aspirations. Home to devolved government, to the Scottish Assembly, and the City of Edinburgh Council. A prime-mover in civic redevelopment on a scale and ambition unsurpassed since the days of James Craig. Ancient site dun eideann; formerly Auld Reekie; self-styled Athens of the North; cradle of the Scottish Enlightenment; the venal, spiritual and actual Heart of Midlothian. A menacing backdrop to Jean Brodie, John Rebus, Mark Renton, Henry Jekyl and Edward Hyde. Articulated by Hugh McDiarmid: 'for we ha'e faith in Scotland's hidden poo'ers'. And elaborated by Ukrainians in Scotland whose commemoration to Saint Wolodymyr sits beside Calton Hill. Epitome for the whole scottish diaspora revealed in the silent hoards, relics and artifacts of the Museum of Scotland. Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.